First, Brisbane.
Pig City, Brisvegas, capital Q, the big city with a small town feel. I love Brisbane, always have, that beautiful meandering river, the shiny new freeways and overpasses, the sensible city layout. And I'm always learning more about the place. New horizons: Brighton, the bayside suburb my sister moved to with Californian bungalows and kids playing in the street (and in the background, humming freeway). We have thought of moving North ourselves recently and I took it upon myself to learn all the train lines, suburbs and real estate boundaries: ramshackle Brisbane spilling over the hillocks and copses, swallowing up villages and towns in its expansion, hungrily eyeing the Gold Coast, Ipswich and Noosa. New Brisbane, Noughties Brisbane, naughty Brisbane with its page 3 girls and barely-concealed explosive pub culture.
We drive to Brisbane in the morning, stopping at the Goldy on the way for bad chicken. Reading and talking, we miss the exit for the Gateway freeway and take a trip through the centre of the city and up towards the Northern sprawl. It has rained since we were here last, and things are chipper, grass, flowers, I even see someone washing their car. To Brighton and expansion has arrived - the scrub behind my sister's place has been dug up for flats in a battleaxe development. Poor Brisbane, do they know what they are doing? Every square metre filling up with houses full of people, people with all their things. Melissa's Mum leaves in tears, she can't bear to say goodbye the long way, but we get it loud and clear. After coffee and a chat, a trip over to the city. there is (as usual) new building happening everywhere. Is every construction worker in Australia currently employed here? "There's plenty of work here," my sister says, "the only people out of work are the ones who don't want to work".
Evening in Brisbane by now: the best time of day, when the heat takes a slight step backwards and the tin roofs start to creak their relief. It rains a little, and our friends don't mention it. Last visit it would have caused a sensation! But the garden has returned, the summer hasn't been too bad, and the cars are clean and that makes everyone happier. The three of us heading overseas are very jumpy, checking bags one more time, feeling uncomfortable in new walking shoes. Lots of great conversations all day today - taking it all in, memorising faces and laughs, we'll be gone a long time. Tonight we watch the entire Sorry speech and the Opposition's response. It feels amazing. This is happening? In Australia? Today? We are leaving home a country changed for the better, shining and new, when just a year ago it was dire, like a superannuated pushcart stuck in a muddy rut with a broken wheel and the bottom rusted out.
To sleep late, too late, (but who could sleep after that and before this?) and awake at 5. Paul takes us to the airport and on the way I take this photo out the back window:
Doesn't do the place credit, but there it is, Brisbane, receding into the distance. Our first stop, the city of our return to Australia, and our city in the future...?
This is only the airport district of Seoul. The city proper is in the far distance on the left, and in the distance near the middle, can you see a massive bridge? Seoul also sprawls, across a western peninsula facing into mainland China. I have never desired to go here, or to Asia for that matter, but as we crept closer and the inflight movie screen regularly showed our positon over the Coral, the Phillipine, and finally the Yellow Sea I thought lots about Australia's position in the world, and the incredible history of these seas of islands, and the looming mass of China/Russia/India. A trip to Asia deserves a re-think.
But perhaps not to South Korea. A fairly disciplined, clean and essentially sterile place it seems. Attractive to foreigners, many languages are spoken, and the food served on the airline and at the hotel is respectfully varied, but it all lacks originality, feels imposed, like they would really rather be somewhere else. I would have liked to have seen the suburbs, and how the Koreans live. We are very well looked after anyway, although strangely they don't have any Australian power transformers at the hotel - strange because they have a local Australian TV channel and plenty of imported shows. We love the soft beds and five-star buffet breakfast, things won't be that good for us for a long time, probably until we return here on our way home.
And next, on the third day, Rome.
Rome deserves a post all its own, and that will come soon. For now, just enjoy this gorgeous view from out of our B & B window and up the Via Viminale towards the station and the Piazza della Repubblica. We did.
Opera district, Rome